A while ago,
thirteen_letter had
wondered aloud when the American version of biscuits first appeared.
Bakerina consulted her rather authoritative
Oxford Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, to little avail other than to point out the rise of chemical leavening on the North American continent. From what I read, potash was used by the Native Americans as a chemical leavener, though this may want cross-checking by someone with a handy copy of Peter Ciullo's
Saleratus: The Curious History & Complete Uses of Baking Soda.
Got curious again today, mostly because I was making a batch of baking powder biscuits for supper tonight. Through Google Books, I've managed to track saleratus biscuits in
The American Housewife of 1841, which gives a receipt for
Butter-milk Biscuit that's remarkably like what I just made a couple of hours ago.
Earlier than this, however, I've managed to track down a copy of Eliza Leslie's
Seventy-Five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats of 1832. This collection provides a recipe for "Sugar Biscuits" that uses both a pearl-ash chemical leavener as well as the beating technique used to create hardtack in the 18th and early 19th centuries.
1 The
Frugal Housewife of two years earlier does give a recipe that equates to the modern biscuit, but is called "short cake" instead and is not separated into single servings.
2Prior to this, "common biscuit" is seen both in the two 18th century editions of Hannah Glasse's
The Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy and in Lucy Emerson's
New England Cookery of 1808, referring to a sweet cookie-biscuit brushed with beaten egg white and dusted in sugar.
New England Cookery also elaborates three other versions of biscuit, the closest to the modern variety being completely unleavened.
So, it would seem, up to the first decades of the 19th century, American biscuits were the same as English. Then, biscuit came to be used for a hardtack analog leavened by beating in air, about the same time as chemical leaveners were coming into use
3. Beaten, single-serving biscuits were then "assisted" in the same way yeast breads were receiving leavening assistance from chemical leaveners, and eventually biscuits came to rely entirely on chemical leavening.
Many thanks to the
Feeding America historic American cookbook project.
1: If you're (crazy and) really keen on learning about hardtack, I got my information from my new copy of
Lobscouse and Spotted Dog (thank you,
thirteen_letter!) where they quote from Wm. Falconer's
New Universal Dictionary of the Marine of 1815.
2: The author, Lydia Maria Francis Child, also describes the use of saleratus to assist in the rising of yeast dough, which is echoed in a number of later texts.
3: The earliest American use of the various carbonates (calcium and potassium) seems to have been in gingerbreads. While not commercially available until the mid-19th century, American settlers were selling off the ash from their cleared land to fuel burgeoning ceramics and glass industry along the eastern seaboard--and potash would have been widely available.